震撼時尚界的八部經典電影

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  West Side Story, 1961  《西區故事》(1961 年)   Natalie Wood plays an impoverished Puerto Rican

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  West Side Story, 1961
  《西區故事》(1961 年)

   Natalie Wood plays an impoverished Puerto Rican on the wrong side of town, but still gets to wear ravishing New Look silhouettes with beautifully matching shoes. This disregard for the tenets of gritty kitchensink drama bothered us for years, but then we remembered that her character Maria worked in a bridal shop – was she helping herself to fabric and dye when the boss wasn’t looking? And is that why she felt so pretty?
  娜塔利·伍德飾演的是一名窮困的波多黎各人,住在鎮上的貧民區,但她依然穿著迷人的新風貌服裝,以及與之相配的漂亮鞋子。這種無視寫實激進現實主義戲劇的宗旨的服飾讓我們困惑了很多年,不過,我們記得她飾演的人物瑪利亞在一家婚紗店工作——難道她趁老闆不注意的時候私用布料和顏料了嗎?那就是她看起來那麼漂亮的原因嗎? 

    

Belle de Jour, 1967
  《白日美人》(1967 年)

   The director Luis Bu?uel steadfastly maintained that this was a serious psycho-sexual study of bourgeois neurosis. Nice try, Bu?uel. Obviously what’s really on show here is Catherine Denueve’s stupefyingly chic wardrobe – designed for her by YSL himself. Seriously – the clothes helped to nail the Deneuve character’s pampered, demure confusion.
  導演路易士·布努埃爾一直堅稱這部電影是一個嚴肅的對資產階級神經症的心性研究。得了吧,布努埃爾。顯然這部影片真正講的是凱薩琳·德納芙令人驚歎的時髦服裝——由伊夫·聖羅蘭親自為她設計。說真的,這些衣服有助於揭示出德納芙所飾演的人物放縱和假正經並存的雙重性格。

  

  The Big Sleep, 1946
  《夜長夢多》(1946 年)

   Notwithstanding that she is one of the most beautiful females ever to grace the planet, Lauren Bacall’s Big Sleep looks – the pinned-back hair, the chicly tilted hats, the power-shouldered jackets – were arguably the finest she wore on screen. And observe again at the dress in which she serenades the punters in Eddie Mars’s gambling den: incomparable.
  儘管勞倫·白考爾是這個星球上最美的女性之一,但她在《夜長夢多》中的裝扮——頭髮別在後面、帥氣地斜戴著帽子、肩部翹起的夾克——可能是她在螢幕上最靚麗的形象。再細看一下她在埃迪·瑪律斯的賭場為賭客唱小夜曲時穿的裙子:無與倫比。

 

  

  Atonement, 2007

  《贖罪》(2007 年)

   How come films set inthe 1930s almost always look better than films made in the 1930s? Moving as Christopher Hampton’s adaptation of Ian McEwan’s novel is, Keira Knightley’s clothes steal the show. The costume designer Jacqueline Durran grasped the period and ran with it – languid, elegant, understated yet drop-dead gorgeous.

  為什麼以20 世紀30 年代為背景的電影幾乎總是比20 世紀30 年代拍攝的電影要好看?影片《贖罪》由克里斯多夫·漢普頓改編自伊恩·麥克尤恩的小說,隨著故事躍然於銀幕,凱拉·奈特利的衣服便大出風頭。這件服裝的設計者賈桂琳·杜蘭抓住了那個時代的特徵,並追隨潮流——慵懶、優美、簡潔,但美豔奪目。
 

 

  Bonnie and Clyde, 1967

  《雌雄大盜》(1967 年)

   Bonnie Parker’s main accessory, aside from her gun and Clyde Barrow, was a series of killer hats. Her beret and silk scarf combination is as legendary as it is simple, and the beribboned fedoras she wore on several heists gave her a sense of propriety in improper circumstances.

  除了槍和克萊德·巴羅外,邦妮·派克的主要配飾是一系列殺手帽。她的貝雷帽和絲巾搭配既簡潔又具有傳奇色彩。她在多次搶劫中所戴的飾有緞帶的淺頂軟呢帽在不適宜的場合中散發出一種適宜感。

  

  Annie Hall, 1977

  《安妮·霍爾》(1977 年)

   Admittedly, that androgynous waistcoat and tie shtick, based on Diane Keaton’s own wardrobe of vintage menswear, looks a little clunky now. But no Annie Hall, no Ralph Lauren. Annie’s impact reverberates even today – see Chloe, Celine.

  不可否認,基於女主角黛安·基頓個人衣櫥中的古董男裝而為影片設計的男女通用的馬甲和領帶的特色搭配,現在看起來有點笨拙。不過沒有《安妮·霍爾》,就沒有拉夫·勞倫的今天。安妮的影響力持續至今—— 看看蔻依和賽琳的設計吧。

    

 

  Factory Girl, 2006

  《工廠女孩》(2006 年)

   To play the part of Edie Sedgwick with any conviction Sienna Miller had to employ the skills of her enormous eyes and long, nubile legs. The clothes in between were a revolving mixture of black leotards, striped dresses and enormous animal skins. Although she spent a good part of the film in nothing more than a pair of tights, wherever she went piles of necklaces and several knuckleduster rings followed.

  為了更好地詮釋伊迪·塞奇威克這個角色,西耶娜·米勒必須發揮她的大眼睛和性感長腿的魅力。影片中的服裝是黑色緊身連衣褲、條紋連衣裙和大皮草的迴圈混搭。儘管她在影片中大部分時間都只是穿著一雙緊身褲襪,但她總是會搭配很多項鍊和指節套似的戒指。

 


  Gone with the Wind, 1939

  《亂世佳人》(1939 年)

  Vivien Leigh’s Southern-belle accent was slightly wonky, but the graceful way she wore her antebellum wardrobe was impeccable. The scene in which Mammy harnesses Scarlett’s waist down to 18in inspired generations of sadistic fashion designers but, fiddle-dee-dee, we can’t help loving those Walter Plunkett designed ballgowns.

  雖然費雯麗的南方美人口音有點不靠譜,但她穿戰前服裝的優雅方式無可挑剔。保姆將斯嘉麗的腰勒成18 英寸的場景為一代代有施虐傾向的時裝設計師帶來了靈感,不過,這純屬無稽之談。我們無法不喜歡那些沃特·普蘭克特設計的公主撐裙。

 

  Vocabulary:

  1. impoverished a. 窮困的,赤貧的。

   2. gritty a . 反映現實的,寫實的。

  3. kitchen-sink: 激進現實主義(英國20世紀 50年代後期以來的一派畫家和劇作家,其作品著重描寫工人家庭生活等的現實灰暗面)。

   4. 凱薩琳·德納芙飾演的是一名外科醫生的太太塞維莉娜(Séverine),她一面是衣冠楚楚、高貴而不可侵犯的貴婦,另一方面又不滿足家庭的無聊生活,偷偷跑到妓院賣淫。

  5. serenade  v . 唱(或奏)小夜曲。

   6. androgynous  a . (服飾等)為兩性所用的,男女不分的。

   7. nubile  a . 性感的。

   8. wonky  a . 靠不住的,有差錯的。

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